It’s a creepy place, and I LOVE creepy places. No wonder ESP hosts a haunted house every Halloween.

ESP makes for a unique visit for many reasons. First, the former prison’s location is unusual. It’s right in downtown Philadelphia. Imagine, as our tour guides informed us, that prisoners were able to hear people in the city celebrating during New Year’s Eve and other holidays.

Second, ESP was designed to isolate and separate inmates to encourage them to reflect on their experiences and to repent. The idea was that the prison would be a place of reflection and rehabilitation, not a place of punishment. With its vaulted sky-lit cells, the prison’s structure was designed to inspire penitence. Little did they know that the setup would drive prisoners nearly insane.

The idea began in 1790, when a “penitentiary house,” with a capacity of 16 single cells, was built in the Walnut Street Jail location in the city of Philadelphia. At that time, the experiment with day and night solitary confinement began. Many leaders believe that crime is the result of one’s environment, and theorized that solitude would make the criminal regretful. This correctional theory became known as the Pennsylvania System.

In 1821, the Philadelphia legislature approved funding to build ESP, which would house 250 inmates, and construction began in 1822. ESP’s first inmate was imprisoned in 1829, and the first female inmate was imprisoned in 1831.

The last of ESP’s original single-story cell blocks was completed in 1831. The inmate population grew such that, eventually, two-story cell blocks were constructed.

Prisoners were confined to solitary units. Each unit had a doorway opening to the outside, where each prisoner enjoyed an approximately eight foot square patch of grass (separated from each other by stone walls), where they could have outside time about an hour each day. The prisoners were not allowed to interact with each other and had minimal contact with prison staff. They ate their meals in their cells and, if they had to be outside their cells for any reason, they wore a hood.

It gets worse. Prisoners were not allowed to have ANYTHING with them in their cells, tour guides told us. The only book they could have was a copy of the Bible.

Read about ESP’s famous prisoners, including including bank robber “Slick Willie” Sutton and Al Capone, here. Famous people such as the Marquis de Lafayette and author Charles Dickens also visited the prison.

Two-story prison wards

As you can imagine, the isolation (with nothing to do!) and sensory deprivation severely impacted prisoners’ mental health. Our tour guides told us that, once released, inmates experienced steady improvement in their psychological health.

Original feeding hole, through which prisoners received meals

The prison had a hospital wing, which was unusual. Typically, prisons send inmates to an outside hospital for treatment. At ESP, however, prisoners were sent to the hospital wing, staffed by physicians and nurses.

Cell on the prison’s hospital ward

Prison cell

In 1913, the Pennsylvania system, with its confinement and solitude, officially ended at ESP.  In 1924, for the first time at ESP, inmates ate together in communal dining halls. The prison was closed in 1970 and, by the mid-1980s, was completely abandoned, until it became the museum that it is today.

Check out more on ESP’s history and timeline of events. When you visit, allot the entire day. ESP hosts a plethora of tours and you will want extra time to meander through the stark halls and read all of the fascinating historical info. And it’s impossible not to get creeped out.

This has long been a source of indecision for me. Would I like Austin, Texas? Would I not? I love Texas, but I hate no can’t stand no don’t identify with hipsters.

I’m an irreverent Gen X’er through and through, raised on Winona Ryder movies and bands like Journey and Boston. Ruggedly independent (I don’t need no man!), I diss conformity (Sorry, but I don’t like sushi and won’t pretend to like it). Frankly, so many hipsters look the same to me (“Is this organic?”) that I start to wonder whether they are all really just conforming to new trends, rather than embracing the weirdness of who they really are. Dude, if you want to have a handlebar mustache, go ahead, but don’t do it just to be like everyone else in your age bracket (and yes, there were plenty of handlebar mustaches in Austin).

But that’s another topic for another day. Today we’re talking about Austin, Texas. The thing is, in addition to being naturally sarcastic about and suspicious of everything, I’m also open-minded. So I figured if I really am open-minded, I’ll at least give the city a shot.

Turns out, it’s not so bad, if you take the stuff you like and roll your Gen X eyes up at the stuff you’re not crazy about. But then, that goes for just about everything, doesn’t it?

Here are the highlights from my stay in Austin:

The Museum of the Weird is totally worth it

If you know me, then you know I like true crime shows, especially ones where I can delve into the warped psyches of serial killers. I can’t help it.

Almost everyone with Scorpio energy is like this (though they likely won’t tell you they are). So I don’t mind seeing what is alleged to be Pancho de Villa’s trigger finger. In fact, I’m fascinated by it.

The museum’s wax figures are also cool, the creepier, the better.

Shrunken heads? Check. Tiny slippers that Chinese women were forced to wear so that they would have dainty, feminine feet? Check. A stuffed, two headed lamb? Yep, they’ve got that, too.

Macabre magic show by our tour guide, where he clamps his hand in a vise, and places fish hooks in his eyelids? Check and check.

The highlight of the Museum of the Weird was having my photo taken with a waxed figure of King Kong:

It’s awesome. The fact that it’s open every day until midnight makes for a fantastically good time, since this is definitely something to experience at nighttime. Go with an open mind and a sense of adventure.

Dirty Sixth Street is a cool place to visit at nighttime

Yes, it’s dirty, and it’s also full of cool bars and good restaurants. I even had good mole at Iron Cactus, so I really can’t knock this place. Yes, there are hipsters. There is also a goth vibe to the place that makes it attractive for me.

There are a bunch of shops with all kinds of weird stuff. I even picked up a pair of AC/DC socks. I mean, I have the T-shirt so why not?

Those motorized scooters can die a horrible death

We have these in the DC area, too, but in Austin they are EVERYWHERE. And they seemed to be used by tipsy college kids at night. I was nearly hit so many times as I partook in my favorite pastime, that is, walking around a new city. At times they seem to completely take over the sidewalks, which is supposed to be for pedestrians!

There are bats!

Austin isn’t called Bat City for nothing. This is a topic I had absolutely no idea about prior to coming to Texas’ capital. There are LOTS of bats. I can see why the city has a weird, almost goth feel. I can dig it.

Austin peeps on the Congress Avenue Bridge waiting to watch the bats swoop out at sunset.

For introverts, it’s a good city to visit. Not super crowded, not overwhelming, easily walkable, and people pretty much leave you alone. I went at the end of June, so when university is back in session it’s likely more crowded. Watch out for those scooters, though! Especially if you like to daydream while walking, like I do.

All in all, Austin is weird, and a bit goth. I wasn’t expecting the goth feel, so that’s an added bonus in my book. It’s also a cool city to visit and still has Tex-mex food and Texas hospitality (even the goth store clerks are friendly and tell you to have a good day, and I got a free beer at hotel check-in!). So I can dig it.

There was plenty I didn’t get to, such as touring the state capitol. But you have to save something for next time.

It’s summer time, and you know what that means! It’s time for my Introvert Travel series

For my birthday week, I wanted to visit a relaxing beach and have access to some cool history stuff. If that’s what you’re looking for, I highly recommend St. Augustine, Florida, for the following reasons.

St. Augustine Beach is relaxed, not crowded, and not overly flashy or developed.

It’s definitely not Miami Beach over spring break, which, to me, would be introvert hell. You don’t have a bunch of huge, flashy buildings, with waiters bringing you margaritas on the beach, and that’s how I like it. I prefer to be left alone to enjoy the Atlantic waves and watch the seagulls dive into the ocean, beak first, to catch their meals.

There’s a LOT more than just the beach.

Spanish forts

Castillo San Marcos – Spain’s main fort in St. Augustine, FL

St. Augustine has a fascinating history. It is the oldest city in the continental United States, having been founded in 1565 by the Spanish. If you’re a fan of medieval history, like me, Castillo San Marcos is the closest you’ll get to an actual castle stateside.

The many years of Spanish influence are heavily apparent in St. Augustine, although the city changed hands several times. In 1763, after Great Britain beat France and Spain in the Seven Years’ War, Spain ceded Florida to Great Britain.

With the second Treaty of Paris in 1783, Florida was returned to Spain and the Bahamas were ceded to Great Britain. The United States pressured Spain to give Florida up, and ended up buying the territory from Spain for about $5 million in 1821.

The Spanish did much to protect their colonial investment. Fort Matanzas is about ten miles south of St. Augustine. Much smaller than Castillo San Marcos, it was established by the Spanish to protect St. Augustine from being attacked surreptitiously via the San Marcos River. It’s accessible by boat, and housed about eight or nine Spanish soldiers at any one time on a rotating basis. Spanish soldiers from Fort Matanzas fired upon British soldiers, but the fort itself was never fired upon or overtaken.

Castillo San Marcos and Fort Matanzas are made of a material called coquina, which is only available in Florida and the Caribbean. Coquina is a sedimentary rock made of tiny shell fragments and is apparently similar to limestone. Our tour guide informed us that coquina is more flexible than other building materials, and would expand upon impact, thereby absorbing the shock of cannon fire and, as such, was quite durable during battle. These forts are both intact, and Castillo San Marcos houses several great exhibits on St. Augustine’s colonial history.

Whetstone Chocolate Factory

The factory is a great way to cool off with some A/C while enjoying several chocolate samples, including seasonal chocolate infused with lime (so refreshing!). You’ll even learn about the history of chocolate.

Hairnets! Yay!

The Spanish were the ones who had the bright idea of adding sugar to make the Native American drink more palatable (if you know the Spanish, then you know they have a huge sweet tooth!).

Chocolates being made!

Get firsthand experience behind the scenes, watching the machines churn out chocolate-covered pretzels and milk chocolate candies.

Alligator Farm

This is the largest collection of crocodiles I have ever seen. Let me tell you; you would not want to run in to one of these guys in a swamp somewhere.

Old Jail

I dragged my kid to see this place. It is very cool; you get a tour of what life was like for men and women in the prison (terribly crowded with several people cramped in one cell). It’s small and an easy add-on to other sites during the day. They also have some old firearms on display.

There’s a bunch of stuff we didn’t even get to, such as the Ponce de Leon Archaeological Park. The bottom line is that there is plenty to do in St. Augustine, much more than the beach. It’s family and solo traveler-oriented, not spring break-oriented. If you’re looking for a relaxed vacation with friendly locals and plenty of interesting things to do, look no further.

In seeking the perfect introvert beach, I set out for Tangier Island, a small island in Virginia’s Chesapeake Bay.

The town of Tangier has an area of 1.2 square miles. The total area of the island, including marshland, is less than 740 acres. A visitor can therefore see quite a lot in one day.

The British used the strategically located island as a staging area during the War of 1812. Tangier was also used as the base for the attack on the U.S. capital during the Battle of Bladensburg and the subsequent Burning of Washington in 1814.

Residents have a unique accent that I can’t quite place. Apparently, scholars debate whether their accent and dialect is derived from 17th century British English or developed separately on its own due to the relative isolation of the island.

Indeed, the only way to reach Tangier is by boat or airplane. It takes one-and-a-half hours to reach the island by ferry from either Maryland or Virginia.

Residents of Tangier make a living largely through crabbing; you’ll get some of the freshest crabcakes ever.

There are no automobiles on the island, although they do have an ambulance, which I witnessed responding to a call about an elderly woman who had apparently become overheated.

Residents get around the island on foot, by bicycle, or on motorized golfcarts. Streets are quite narrow, barely allowing two of those golfcarts to pass each other. Houses are close together and everyone has one of these golfcarts parked in their yards.

The island boasts a museum, a few restaurants, and a couple of bed and breakfasts. I traipsed around, visiting the marshes and looking into people’s yards, which included greeting this resident goat, until I arrived at the beach.

Imagine pristine, white sand with clear water lazily lapping before breaking on the beach before you. Now imagine that there’s hardly anyone else there. It was incredible. Be warned that the water gets pretty deep. About 50 feet from shore, it was almost up to my shoulders.

On the walk back to the ferry, a resident breezed past me on her golfcart. She stopped and asked me where I was going, and I told her, “The Chesapeake House, to get some crabcakes and clam fritters before I take the ferry back.” Moving some stuff from the seat next to her, she said, “Get in.” Hey, I wasn’t going to argue.

She told me that they had a school and a medical center on the island, that women could give birth at the medical center in an emergency but that typically they went to Maryland or Virginia for that, and that if someone was really sick they got flown by helicopter to a hospital in one of the two neighboring states.

Heading back to Reedville on the ferry, I marveled at how Tangier has remained today. So different due to its relative isolation yet so close to big cities. You seriously do not want to miss it. As far as short getaways go, it cannot be beat.

Ahhh…summertime. The beach. The crowds. The noise. Wait.

I love the beach, but can’t stand sitting in vacation traffic for hours only to arrive at a noisy, crowded beach replete with snack shacks and touristy shops. So I set out in search of the perfect introvert (and inexpensive!) beach. And I think I found it. Two of them, in fact.

Hidden away east of Kilmarnock, Virginia, on the Chesapeake Bay, off of a thinly traveled narrow road, lies Hughlett Point Natural Area Preserve. The preserve boasts the northeastern beach tiger beetle (Cicindela dorsalis dorsalis) and other rare invertebrates; is an important wintering area for migrating waterfowl and songbirds; and serves as a habitat for bald eagles, osprey and northern harriers.

And there’s a beach! I parked in a small parking area, and walked about a third of a mile through the woods to reach a nearly deserted, undeveloped beach. The sand was pristine and smooth, and the water was calm and inviting. I baked in the sun for a while, reading my forensic thriller novel, and cooled off in the Bay. It was the perfect way to recharge my batteries.

I was even more excited about the next beach, which is only accessible by ferry. I drove to Reedville, Virginia, a town with a huge fishing industry (read: fantastic seafood restaurants!), and stayed in The Gables Bed and Breakfast.

The Gables is truly amazing. The main building is an architectural specimen, but it was closed to visitors at the time. Rooms are located in another building on the premises. The Gables is run by a very nice lady and her son.

The room in which I stayed (the Rebecca Ann room) is the size of a studio apartment in Washington, DC, and is decorated in a nautical theme. Every time I caught a glimpse of this captain dude hanging in the room, I did a double take because I thought it was an actual person.

With its high ceilings, sitting area, and separate alcove for the queen-sized bed, the room was much larger than your average bed and breakfast or hotel room.

All the windows, including one made of stained glass, let in plenty of natural light.

A masthead hangs right above the door inside the room, an interesting piece of decor.

And, possibly the best of all, the gentleman brought a full breakfast straight to my room (introvert heaven!).

Wait, a thermos of coffee, all for me? I think they know me!

After a rejuvenating stay at The Gables, and an excellent dinner at Tommy’s Fine Dining, I got up early to catch the ferry to Tangier Island, and subsequently stepped into another world. Stay tuned next week for that adventure!

I’m on a quest to find the best introvert spots, where us easily overstimulated types can get some exercise and recharge with peace and quiet.

Just across the West Virginia border, about an hour and a half from Washington DC, lies Harpers Ferry, a picturesque town that allows visitors to take in the incredible landscape, breathe some fresh air while hiking, and learn about American history.

The town is named after Robert Harper, who recognized its potential for industry given its strategic location (where the Potomac and Shenandoah rivers meet), and the power the two rivers could generate. In the 1750s Harper bought what were essentially the “squatting” rights to the land and maintained a ferry service across the Potomac.

In 1796, the federal government purchased a 125-acre parcel of land from Harper’s heirs, and began construction on the United States Armory and Arsenal at Harpers Ferry in 1799. The armory was one of only two such facilities in the U.S., the other located at Springfield, Massachusetts. These two facilities together produced most of the small arms for the U.S. Army. The town was thus transformed into an industrial center. Between 1801 and 1861, when it was destroyed to prevent capture during the Civil War, the armory produced more than 600,000 muskets, rifles and pistols.

You will get your exercise walking up and down around the town. St. Peter’s Catholic Church was built in the mid-1800s and boasts Gothic revival architecture visible from almost anywhere in the town.

Harper’s Ferry is also well-known for being the location of John Brown’s abolitionist uprising. You can walk past St. Peter’s to old fort ruins.

There are PLENTY of hiking opportunities. I hiked Maryland Heights, complete with stone fort ruins and incredible views of the town and the Potomac River.

When we fist visited in April, there was virtually no one walking through the town. We enjoyed rummaging through the boutique shops (we even found comic books!).

This past weekend, although the town was crowded with sightseers, the rain chased away most of the hikers, so I had the entire hike to myself except for about fifteen other people and three dogs.

Bottom line: if you want to escape the big-city hustle, slow down, and take in some history along with some exercise, then Harpers Ferry is the place for you.

Who knew that there was a peaceful respite full of music, flowers, and Japanese koi, in the middle of Florida?

Among the crowded and noisy theme parks, which were fun but which gave this introvert a headache and tinnitus, my son and I discovered Bok Tower Gardens.

How did we find out about it? After all, it’s difficult to just stumble upon the 250-acre gardens hidden away in Lake Wales, a city in Polk County, Florida.

Well, we were at LEGOLAND. And one of the features at LEGOLAND is a set of model cities made of, wait for it, legos! A tall lego tower, called the Singing Tower, caught my interest. Upon further research, I discovered that it was about 30 minutes from our hotel. Trip: planned.

My new Legoland buddy.

Bok Tower Gardens is named for Edward Bok, who immigrated to the U.S. from the Netherlands when he was six years old. He became a successful author and publisher, as well as a respected humanitarian and advocate of the the environment. Bok purchased the land to establish gardens and a bird sanctuary, and built the Singing Tower, so-called because its bells toll every 30 minutes. A plaque at the pond in front of the tower indicates that Bok presented these gardens to the American people on February 1, 1929, as a gift expressing his appreciation for the opportunities he had been given.

Bok commissioned architect Frederick Law Olmsted, Jr. (son of Frederick Law Olmsted, who designed New York City’s Central Park) to transform this land into the gorgeous gardens that remain today.

The gardens are indeed impressive. The Children’s Garden contains a spider climb, outdoor musical instruments, and a rock splash play area, in addition to paths and bridges. The lush subtropical foliage boasts a gorgeous display of plants and flowers. Visitors can also access the Bok’s estate house, decorated in a beautiful Mediterranean style.

The most impressive part of the gardens, in my opinion, is the Singing Tower, with its stained glass windows and Japanese koi pond. It was as if we had stepped into an enchanted forest. The tower is built on Iron Mountain, one of the highest points in Florida. Behind the tower, visitors have idyllic views of rolling hills.

The Singing Tower ringed by a Japanese koi pond.

You can spend hours meandering through the many paths and enjoying the views. Bok Tower Gardens is truly impressive in its landscaping and architecture but, mostly, for the peace and tranquility it provides from the bustling tourism of the state.

These koi are not dumb. As soon as they see people, they open up their mouths, expecting food.

“You’re going to Miami.”

Most people would be excited to go to Miami for a work conference. I’ll admit, I was a bit, but having been to South Beach, I know it’s not really my scene. The one time I went there, tipsy partygoers, insane lights and endless noise shocked my system, sending me back to the hotel with ringing in my ears, prompting me to hide under the covers with a book.

I brought my personal laptop, thinking that I would get some writing done. Then I thought, I’m going to Miami and I don’t even have to pay for the trip. I should maybe, I don’t know, actually see something of Miami, not like last time.

I did some research online and, low and behold, found out that Miami has a pretty vibrant art scene with plenty of museums, which, unfortunately, I would not be able to get to since I had to attend a conference all day. There is also an independent book store, Books and Books, on South Beach, and it was open late. As luck would have it, the book store was located on a pedestrian mall.

OK, I thought, I’ll take a look.

Day 1

On a Monday evening, my first day there, I took an uber from the hotel to Lincoln Road Mall. It was more serene than I had anticipated. There were a good many people out for a Monday night in March (who knows what it would be like on a weekend in the summertime?), but the crowd level was completely manageable. The extremely wide pedestrian strip afforded a great opportunity to amble around, gazing at store windows and perusing restaurant menus.

Books and Books was easy to find; it’s well-organized and well-stocked and decorated quite aesthetically. There were only a few customers, so I was able to scan the bookshelves in peace, without feeling rushed. They have a cafe right outside the store entrance, if you are eager to read your new book with a cup of coffee.

After I made my purchase (and talked to a store employee about possibly having my books for sale there, shameless!), I walked straight out on Lincoln Road Mall and had a stroll followed by a quiet dinner while contemplating the ocean breeze.

Day 2

After an all-day conference, where conference goers were packed like sardines into giant ballrooms, where there was always a line at the bathroom and at the espresso bar (INTJs loathe waiting; it’s a time waster and I could always be getting something productive done), and where cell phones were constantly beeping (distracting!), I was absolutely done with peopling. I scuttled to my hotel to swim laps in the hotel pool.

The pool was heated (score!) and empty (double score!). I swam my laps in absolute peace. As I did the backstroke and gazed skyward, watching birds glide effortlessly past floating clouds and between skyscrapers, I thought that this city isn’t so bad after all.

For next time, I’ll try the Wynwood Art District, and revisit Delicias de España, a wonderful store and restaurant where I picked up some real Spanish chorizo

Within the past month, I took a trip to Ireland and Spain to visit friends and family. While checking my luggage at Dublin Airport for my return trip to Washington, DC, the attendant informed me that I would be going through U.S. customs in Dublin.

“Excuse me,” I said, “so when I arrive in Washington, DC, I just get my luggage and walk out the door without showing anyone my passport or anything?”

“Yes, that’s right,” she answered.

I didn’t believe her, but it was true. Apparently, in late 2014 the U.S. started doing customs pre-clearance procedures in airports in a few select locations, including Canada, the Bahamas, Bermuda, Aruba, Ireland, and the United Arab Emirates. See http://www.cbp.gov/border-security/ports-entry/operations/preclearance.

I was informed that my luggage would not be loaded onto the plane until I had passed the pre-clearance area. The pre-clearance officers are U.S. Customs and Border Protection (U.S. CBP) employees (not a bad gig, living in Bermuda or Ireland). Once again, I’m reminded that I may have chosen the wrong line of work.

When I checked in with the U.S. CBP agent at the Dublin Airport, he showed me photos of my luggage, displayed on a screen, and asked whether it was mine (talk about Big Brother).

The U.S. CBP points out the advantages associated with the preclearance process. First, they indicate that it is proactive against threats. Now, I can obviously see the potential security benefits here. People are cleared for entrance into the U.S. before they even board the airplane. And if there is any concern about the individual traveling, his or her luggage is not placed in the airplane.

Second, they indicate that it achieves “the service goals of airports and air carriers, while improving the passenger experience.” Now, that is BS. Doing the pre-clearance in Ireland was such a hassle for me. Here’s why.

At first, I thought it would be a good thing not to have to wait in line at the customs area in DC after a transatlantic flight with a young kid, with everyone tired and hungry. However, having to do pre-clearance at an outbound location adds on a great deal of time to the pre-flight chaos. The CBP indicates that “preclearance doesn’t export queues – it helps to eliminate them.” It may eliminate the queue on the U.S. side, but it doesn’t have any effect on the overall time during which passengers have to queue for customs. In fact, we were treated as second-class citizens in Dublin. Upon heading to the (shorter) line for U.S. citizens, we were told that we had to be in the non-citizen line because we were traveling with a young child. Apparently, those in the U.S. citizen line can check their passports and complete customs procedures using automatic kiosks. We couldn’t use them. Why? The kiosks were too tall for children to use.

“Well, I’ll just pick him up to take his photo,” I suggested.

“No,” I was told.

So much for saving time. You just added additional time onto my pre-flight procedures. Thank you. I should add that this was after having already gone through two security checkpoints. I’m still not sure why this was, unless a second security check was necessary for U.S.-bound flights.

We had arrived at the Dublin airport exactly three hours prior to flight takeoff. When we got through pre-clearance customs, we had about thirty-five minutes until boarding. And everything had run relatively smoothly. The holdup was waiting in line.

The bottom line is, whereas the pre-clearance procedure may provide possible advantages regarding security (although this is yet to be seen), it creates another giant hassle for passengers. I would rather go through customs stateside, even after being exhausted from a long flight, than miss my outbound flight because I didn’t have enough time to get through two security lines and a pre-clearance section.